Waves, currents and coastal processes
These research activities focus on 'gravity waves': waves, swells, long waves, tsunamis and tides. They focus on the joint characterisation of waves and currents and on wave-structure-bottom-current interactions for the problems of wave transformations, bathymetric changes around structures and beach erosion. They are based on theoretical and numerical work, on experimental resources shared with the SeaTech engineering school (canals and test basin) at the UTLN, on long-term observation of water levels and temperatures at the coast (HTM-NET network) and on a network of high-frequency radars maintained by the MIO in the Toulon region.
Recent publications
Belibassakis, K. A and Rey, V., (2024), Estimation of harbor and bay resonances by MMS-FEM model with application to the bay of Toulon France, Oceanologia, 66 (4), 2024.
Cuevas, A., Rey, V., Ardhuin, F. and Touboul, J. (2025), Current measurement by use of synchronous wave probes: Method and example of laboratory experiments for progressive or partially standing wavesOcean Res. 154 (2025), 104386.
Assessment of OMA Gap-Filling Performances for Multiple and Single Coastal HF Radar Systems: Validation with Drifter Data in the Ligurian SeaL Corgnati, M Berta, Z Kokkini, C Mantovani, MG Magaldi, A Molcard, ..., Remote Sensing 16 (13), 2458, 2024.
Improved calculation of the second-order ocean Doppler spectrum for sea state inversionCA Guérin, IEEE Journal of Ocean Engineering 2025.
HF Radar Real-Time Alert to a Tsunami-Like Disturbance at Tofino on January 5, 2020: Surge or Tsunami? M Heron, B Domps, CA Guérin, M Wang, L Petersen, IEEE Journal of Oceanic Engineering, 2023.
New signal processing techniques for phased-array oceanographic radars: self-calibration, antenna grouping, and denoising, D Dumas, CA Guérin, Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology 40 (6), 753-769, 2023.
4D-Var data assimilation and observation impact on surface transport of HF-Radar derived surface currents in the North-Western Mediterranean SeaM Bendoni, AM Moore, A Molcard, MG Magaldi, M Fattorini, C Brandini, Ocean Modelling 184, 102236, 2023.
Revisiting the Cox and Munk wave-slope statistics using IASI observations of the sea surface, CA Guérin, V Capelle, JM Hartmann, Remote Sensing of Environment 288, 113508, 2023.
Breakdown of near-surface sea current from high-frequency radar data, A Cáceres-Euse, A Molcard, N Bourg, D Dumas, CA Guérin, G Besio, Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology 39 (12), 1927-1942, 2023.
Rapid Scale Wind Profiling with Autoregressive Modeling and L-Band Doppler Radar, B Domps, J Marmain, CA Guérin, IEEE Transactions on Geoscience and Remote Sensing 60, 1-10, 2022.
Coastal high-frequency radars in the Mediterranean-Part 2: Applications in support of science priorities and societal needsE Reyes, E Aguiar, M Bendoni, M Berta, C Brandini, A Cáceres-Euse, ...D Dumas...CA Guérin... A Molcard, Ocean science 18 (3), 797-837, 2022.
Coastal high-frequency radars in the Mediterranean-Part 1: Status of operations and a framework for future developmentP Lorente, E Aguiar, M Bendoni, M Berta, C Brandini, A Cáceres-Euse, ...D Dumas...CA Guérin... A Molcard. Ocean science 18 (3), 761-795, 2022.
A Weakly Nonlinear System for Waves and Sheared Currents over Variable Bathymetry, J Touboul, V Morales-Marquez, K Belibassakis, Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 12 (3), 509, 2024.
Estimation of harbor and bay resonances by MMS-FEM model with application to the Bay of ToulonFrance, K Belibassakis, V Rey - Oceanologia, 2024.
Observations and simulations of the meteotsunami generated by the Tonga eruption on 15 January 2022 in the Mediterranean Sea, P Heinrich, A Gailler, A Dupont, V Rey, Geophysical Journal ..., 2023 - academic.oup.com
Projects in progress
ANR ROSMED "Surface Wave Radars in the Mediterranean". 2023-2025 (CA Guérin, D. Dumas, A. Molcard, A. Caceres), PI MIO/ONERA, 162 ke MIO. The aim is to exploit for oceanography the exceptional capabilities of the Surface Wave Radar installed by ONERA at the Salins du Midi. This radar, designed to detect ships at long range, can be used to map currents with excellent azimuth resolution and will cover a large part of the Gulf of Lion up to 300 km from the coast.